Five Things: Ten Prime Steak & Sushi
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Sean DeBobes, GoLocalProv Dining Critic (www.golocalprov.com)
When Sean DeBobes heard that 10 Prime Steak & Sushi, the popular Providence spot for dinner and cocktails, had revamped its room plus some menu items, he was right there to check things out. Here are the five things he wants you to know.
One. Hot rocks.
Tell me about the best beef you have ever had… this one had to compete with it! Ten’s premium Wagyu beef cooked tableside on scorching hot rocks were great eats and great fun. Thin slices of beef were delivered raw to the table with a pile of shredded Daikon radish. With date-night flourish I cooked the beef, moving it from plate to rock with chop sticks before dipping in a subtly seasoned wasabi aioli. I loved this one!
Two. From the bar.
I was inveigled into a drink by the Buddha’s Eye cocktail, a sweet mix of Pearl Plum vodka, lavender simple syrup and cranberry juice. This fusion bordered on the saccharine side, but it was brought around by an almost spicy lavender endnote. Next time around, however, I will skip the Caipirinha. The bar must have been having too much fun with this one. The drink arrived to the table in an epically tall glass brimming with an even larger mound of shaved ice. I had to stand up to drink this one and when I did, the heavy handed lime blend didn’t make the effort worth it.
Three. That sushi.
I’m clapping right now, I promise. Ten treated me to a roll that I will remember, and covet, for some time. The Morris Roll, consisting of crispy tempura fried shrimp, fresh asparagus and cucumber was topped with tuna and spicy crab salad. It had a great dynamism to it all and I really loved the crab salad that crowned the affair. A truly beautiful concoction.
Four. The steak.
I’ve said it before - a great steak is in the simple seasoning. Ten offered a few complex entres, but I opted for the simple side. And was I glad of it, as their veal chop was all I could have asked for. I’ll note that it was slightly overdone, but still tender, and the simple salt-and-pepper-sear delivery was delightful. I was also thrilled with the Ten Filet, a filet mignon served with a piece of perfectly seared foie gras and roasted asparagus before receiving a treatment of port wine demi glace. It was a beautiful piece of meat, and sure to be a crowd pleaser in any crowd.
Five. Molten Chocolate Cake.
I’d normally say that I have had enough of this classic chef dessert to not order it again. I’m glad that my server cajoled me into this one as it was truly a great indulgence. An almost soufflé-like cake gave way to a decadent liquid chocolate center. Don’t mess with a classic, especially if you can execute one this well.
Would I go back? Absolutely! If you can afford the night out at Ten, carpe diem.